I took my 5'10" twin out again this weekend...
I caught 3 waves on Friday before the sun went down, and each one was perfect, glassy, and wide open. I was absolutely flying... or at least it felt that way. My 3rd wave was from the General's house all the way to Fred Kiko's white wave house which is nearly a football field in distance. I was putting so much into that wave, that I felt like puking when I kicked out and laid back down to paddle out... When I got out of the water, my neighbor, Pat, yelled down from his balcony, "David, you looked like you were twenty years old again... nice job out there, kid!" That made me feel like a million bucks.
Saturday, I surfed from 7am until 10:15am, and just couln't surf anymore. I caught too many amazing lefts and rights. My turns made me feel like I was just all style, but I know it was just the board, doing all the work for me. I can't really describe the feeling...
Saturday evening, I surfed again for about 3 hours and just killed it. I was just cranking the shit out of my bottom turns, and just flying back up the face and blowing the lip apart, and re-entereing the face, flying past the sections back up into the upper 3rd, cutting back, makeing sections into shallower water going top to bottom in seconds, just mind-blown at the performance aspects that this new fin setup has added to my "used-to-be-fish-template". It is night and day (this template) ridden as a fish, quad, or twin.
I was too pooped to even paddle out on Sunday... my arms were noodles.
Thanks, Bill, for making me feel like 35 ain't so old afterall!
-Kawika (David Falkenau)Artisan Surf Designs: Falkenau Surfboards & Fins