The older I get, the more I think about the materials I am working
with and thinking about our long-term health – my clients, my family, and my
own.. As I shape through my last few blanks in my stock-pile, I am thinking
about ways to incorporate organic materials derived from nature, drafting my ideas
and harvesting my inspiration from fellow pioneers and artisans like Yvon
Chouinard, Fletcher Chouinard, Andy Powers, Les Paul, Leo Fender, George Greenough, James
Wharram, Paul Jensen, Danny Hess, Paul Gross, John Cherry, Jerry Lopez, Skip
Frye, Josh Hall, Jerry Ingham, John Carper, Mike Diffenderfer, Bill Thrailkill,
Cal Schafer, Phil Edwards, Bert Burger, Bob Simmons, Richard Kenvin, Lindsay
Lord, Daniel Thompson, Jim Kinstle, Marlon Bacon, Jim Phillips, Daniel Partch,
Geppy, Velzy, Avila, Masuzzo, the crew at Keahana – and the list goes on. Think
about it – we are made up (99%) of the six elements oxygen, carbon, hydrogen,
nitrogen, calcium, and phosphorus; about 0.85% of the five elements potassium,
sulfur, sodium, chlorine, magnesium; and other trace elements, which are all
necessary for life. Trees and plants need sun, soil, water, and carbon dioxide,
among other trace elements in order to survive.
The earth is 71% salt water, 2.5% fresh water (69%of that is frozen),
and 26.5% land. We love the earth. We love the oceans, lakes, rivers, streams,
and estuaries. We love life. We love to surf, and let’s face it – we need
the plants and trees for our oxygen. It only seems natural – the bond between
humans and wooden surf craft. I want to be a positive cog in the wheel by
using UNHARMFUL variants of naturally occurring organic materials, rather than
HARMFUL synthetic materials to make our surf craft. I am excited to see all of
the wood board builders out there, and the guys creating green blanks and
resins, because it makes me realize that we are finally starting to change our
mindset as designers and shapers. We are
finally starting to break out of the mold – like we had to when Grubby Clark
took a sledge hammer to most of his blank molds and we had to solve the blank
equation. There are ways of doing it,
and I am excited for my kids, and the experiences they have ahead of them with
a lifetime of riding new waves and refining their surf craft.
